Guest Post: The Bayreuth Experience by Douglas Blackstone

This past June an old friend of mine had got to the point in his bucket list where he wanted to see Wagner’s Ring at Bayreuth in Northern Bavaria, home of Wagner’s famous Festspielhaus. He was taking his son and his nephew to accompany him. I had actually been to Bayreuth many years ago as a young man, and I wished him well.

A few weeks later, he phoned me to say his son had decided not to go and would I take his place! I had already told him that the music would be the best he will hear, but the productions are embarrassing, but who would turn this offer down?!

Wanfried

So I went. We spent 10 days in Bayreuth and saw 6 operas, The Ring, plus Tristan, and Parsifal. There were a few days in between here and there in which we explored the town, to include the Wagner Museum at his house Wanfried (a must!), and the wonderful Steingraeber Piano Factory, where only 100 beautiful hand-made pianos are made and sold per year. There is also a gorgeous wooded park nearby where one can happily while away a few hours a day.

None of this is near the Festspielhaus, which is a good 20 minutes’ drive by coach, which the hotels happily provide. They leave your hotel at 3:00 to get to the theater for the 4:00 start of the operas. (Rheingold is the only exception, starting at 6:00, as it is 2½ hours long without intermission. More on that later!) The theater is on a lovely hill surrounded by a park of its own, and attendees congregate around the grounds to show off their finery. Everyone dresses up! – Tuxedos! and Beautiful long and flowing dresses. Photographers snapping away! This is all part of the Experience, and it is fun.

But what I will remember most is the music. The “Festival Orchestra” is made up of the finest players in all of Germany and perhaps beyond. I have yet to hear such wonderful playing, enhanced by the stunning acoustics of the auditorium. This is all Wagner’s original design. The orchestra is hidden and extends below the stage. There is a canopy that reaches up to about 3 feet to the level of the stage, so there is a glow from the pit, but one doesn’t see the conductor or the musicians; there is no applause; it is quiet in the sold-out hall; and the music just begins.

And in the end, that is enough. The productions – what you see on stage – are shocking and, in my opinion, a disgrace, particularly the Ring. For an in-depth review with photos, visit here.

What to know: Tickets are expensive but available. There used to be a years-long waiting list, particularly for the Ring and Meistersinger; not so much for the other operas. Obviously, the sooner the better for choice. Our houses were full by curtain time. One can order online at Wagneropera.net.

The Auditorium of the Festspielhaus is not air conditioned, and it gets hot. One can have hand held fans (not motorized!) The seating is the same for all seats. The higher priced tickets are in the front rows in the center.

There are no aisles. Patrons enter from side doors that serve particular rows. The rows are narrow, and it appears tradition for everyone to stand until everyone is in. There is no entry or exit after the doors close (unless emergency – and there was a heat exhaustion emergency during Rhinegold!)

The seats are hard and narrow, but cushions are offered free! Be sure to get them. The bathrooms have been modernized and are large, clean, and air conditioned!

The intermissions between acts are an hour long and one can stroll in the gardens and grab a glass of Champagne or whatever you want, from reserved tables to standing in a queue for an ice cream cone.

And that’s it! It’s a singular experience of a lifetime – particularly if one is a Wagner fan. The current director of the Bayreuth Festival is Katharina Wagner – Richard Wagner’s Great Grand Daughter. I fail to understand how she feels these productions honor his legacy. But I wouldn’t have missed it for the World.
Douglas Blackstone

 

 

Douglas Blackstone, M.M., J.D., recently retired as Director of the Odyssey Program at JHU, and from 1987-97, was principal horn and later, manager of the National Symphony Orchestra of the South African Broadcasting Corporation. 

 

 

Newsletter article by Douglas Blackstone

Conductors Good & Bad, or at all?

By Douglas Blackstone

When I was an active member of a symphony orchestra, I often got the question: “What does the conductor really do?” This was asked with the notion that it was difficult for the average concert attendee and listener to quantify a conductor’s actual contribution to the success of the concert!

Well, we’ve heard of the conductor-less Orpheus Chamber Orchestra, so it must be possible for an ensemble to play without one. In my experience, though, I would rather have a conductor—but a good one.

So, what does an orchestra want in a good conductor? I’ve thought about this a lot, and here’s my take: The orchestra wants a conductor who knows as much about the music as they do—and hopefully more. There are few who inspire musicians in this way, but here are several for whom I was lucky enough to play:

Eugene Ormandy

Eugene Ormandy photographed by Adrian Siegel for the Philadelphia Orchestra

I received my Bachelor’s and Master’s degrees from Temple University’s music school, so I spent 6 happy years playing horn in Philadelphia and heard the orchestra with Ormandy many times. I never played in the Philadelphia Orchestra, but Ormandy conducted the Temple Orchestra a few times, and I also played for him in the Curtis orchestra.

The Curtis Orchestra at that time did not give concerts. It was a true training orchestra, but they only had 4 horn players, so whenever they did big works, I, and others, were fortunate to be asked to play. The arrangement was that whoever was conducting the Philly Orchestra that weekend would come in and rehearse the same program at Curtis.

On this particular weekend, Ein Heldenleben, Strauss’ huge tone poem, was on, and it requires eight horns. I played 7th. There was a warm-up rehearsal on Thursday so that we were “ready” for Ormandy, and that rehearsal was conducted by William (Bill) Smith, the Asst. Conductor and fine pianist of the Philadelphia Orchestra. He himself was an excellent conductor and a real gentleman. Bill Smith told us that there was a mistake in the score in one of the big chords that punctuate the opening bars of Heldenleben, and that we should play the printed notes to see if Ormandy caught it. The mistake was in the 7th Horn part! Ormandy caught it and stopped the orchestra to say, “7th horn, there’s a mistake in your part; please play the penciled note.” That’s pretty impressive. There were more examples in my brief experience with Ormandy, and it became clear that he had perfect pitch, which was very handy, particularly with vocal soloists!

Richard Bonynge

Richard Bonynge and Joan Sutherland photographed for DECCA

Bonynge is the husband of the late celebrated soprano and diva, Dame Joan Sutherland. He conducted many, if not most of her appearances. She was scheduled to sing Bellini’s Norma with the Philadelphia Lyric Opera, and I was lucky to play in the orchestra. It was a plum job too, mainly because prominent singers who sang at the Met would come down to Philly to sing on their days off! I remember Pavarotti, Beverly Sills, Anja Silja & Franco Corelli, to name a few.

We only had three rehearsals, the last being the dress rehearsal, so a conductor had to work fast. Most of these stars were lovely people, and couldn’t have been more accommodating. Joan Sutherland, however, was a real Prima Donna. She didn’t even come to rehearsals, so the company had a “stand-in” to sing Norma in the rehearsals. We got about 20 minutes into the first rehearsal, and Mr. Bonynge stopped and said to the stand-in, in the most gentlemanly manner, “I’m sorry, you sing beautifully, but it’s not really helping us,”—and he dismissed her!

We thought, “What now?” as the clock ticked away. Bonynge carried on and assured us that, at this bar, she would sing this, and this phrase would be like that, and, sure enough, it was exactly like that in the concert! I have rarely felt so secure in a performance.

Jussi Jalas

Image: Discogs

In 1973, I joined the Symphony Orchestra of the South African Broadcasting Corporation. Being a member of a radio orchestra (like the NBC Symphony Orchestra) has many advantages, one being that you will often play and record works for radio broadcast that one would not usually find on public programs.

We had many “guest” conductors, one being Jussi Jalas, (pronounced Yusi Yalas) of whom I had never heard. He was Sibelius’ son-in-law, and, of course, we recorded Sibelius—his 1st and 7th symphonies for radio broadcast. One thing about recording in a studio is that the experience no longer involves a “public.” It’s just you, your colleagues, and the conductor. With a good conductor, that experience can be especially meaningful.

Sibelius 7 is an intense, yet beautiful, one-movement symphony of no great length, but its Finnish colors and harmonies can only be brought out by a conductor who knows the work in his body and soul, and this was the experience that I witnessed. You could see in his face and movement, the Maestro’s connection to this music, and he brought it to us. I’ll never forget it. This is what we as symphony musicians want.

Thomas Dausgaard

Thomas Dausgaard photographed by Thomas Grøndahl

I retired from playing in the SABC Orchestra in 1991 but continued as Orchestra Manager until 1997, when I left South Africa to return to the USA. While Orchestra Manager, I had far more to do with the many guest conductors whom we engaged. Only a few made a lasting impression on me. Thomas Dausgaard was one of them. Now Music Director of the Seattle Symphony and Chief Conductor of the BBC Scottish Symphony Orchestra, in 1997, he was just getting started —full of energy and demands! He had programmed Bruckner 8, which uses enormous forces, for which we supplemented the string, wind and brass sections. I booked myself to play 7th horn and 1st B-Flat Wagner Tuba. (The four Wagner Tubas have a very prominent role in Bruckner’s 7th, 8th, and 9th symphonies.)

I feel fortunate, in those last few appearances with the SABC Orchestra, that I got to play for this talented and “driven” young man. He certainly knew this symphony better than we did, and it was a joy to experience with his complete knowledge of the score. Thomas Dausgaard is a conductor to watch.

Most of what makes a good conductor happens in rehearsal, not the concert, and that’s why his or her art may not be obvious to members of the audience. Conducting an intricate work by memory is a clue. Of those who have led the BSO, I have always admired Günther Herbig. When he raises that long white baton to begin Bruckner’s 7th Symphony, with nothing in front of him but the players, the music that flows from the orchestra is truly magical.

Douglas Blackstone, M.M., J.D., recently retired as Director of the Odyssey Program at JHU, and from 1987-97, was principal horn and later, manager of the National Symphony Orchestra of the South African Broadcasting Corporation.

 

Willy’s take on Madrid/Barcelona

I just returned from my first WBJC music tour – this one to Madrid and Barcelona. Although I wasn’t the only first timer, there were many in our group of 25 who had taken several trips and were glowing about all of them (hearing YoYo Ma playing Bach in Berlin was one of the tops). But ours had so many highlights – seeing Aida in Madrid after viewing Picasso’s “Guernica” at the Museu Reina Sofia. And then taking the high-speed AVE train to Barcelona with food and drinks in route where we had a fantastic piano recital by Rafal Blechacz, a private cello performance at Paolo Casals’ home on the Mediterranean and a second opera, Andrea Chenier. There were other music events and museum visits but a highlight for me was seeing Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia which is still under construction but scheduled to be finished in 2026, marking 100 years since Gaudi died. And I haven’t even mentioned the food and wine in special settings – or the fantastic guides whether local or our genius Gavin who managed to pull minor miracles getting us places when buses didn’t show as promised. Needless to say I’ll look forward to taking another one of these tours in the future.

Day 1 in Barcelona (credit: Larry Medoff)
Evening shot of cathedral in Madrid (credit: Willy Sydnor)
An alley in Palma (credit: Larry Medoff)
Palma (credit: Larry Medoff)
Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia (credit: Willy Sydnor)
Gaudi’s Park Guell (credit: Willy Sydnor)
At Augustus Forum (credit: Larry Medoff)
Roman aquaduct in Segovia (credit: Willy Sydnor)
The stars heading out to see Aida in Barcelona (credit: Willy Sydnor)
Maestro Guide, Gavin Miller, has our rapt attention, in a Barcelona square (credit: Larry Medoff)

09/27/15 Toccata

 

  • 6:45 PM

    Johann Christian Bach — Harpsichord Concerto No. 1

    Key: B-Flat
    Opus: 1
    Conductor: Anthony Halstead
    Ensemble: Hanover Band
    Anthony Halstead, harpsichord
    CPO, 999299

  • 6:00 PM

    Johannes Brahms — Sonata for two pianos

    Opus: 34
    Valery Afanassiev, piano
    Vadim Suchanov,piano
    Denon, 78976

 

09/20/15 Toccata

 

  • 6:30 PM

    Camille Saint-Saens — Piano Concerto No. 1

    Key: D
    Opus: 17
    Conductor: Louis de Froment
    Ensemble: Orchestra of Radio Luxembourg
    Gabriel Tacchino, piano
    Vox/MMG, 3028

  • 6:15 PM

    Charles Tomlinson Griffes — Sonata

    Key: F
    Garah Landes, piano
    Koch Intl., 7045

  • 6:00 PM

    Giulio Regondi — Remembrance

    Douglas Rogers,concertina
    Bridge, 9055

 

09/13/15 Toccata

 

  • 6:34 PM

    Leo Sowerby — Festival Music

    Conductor: John Welsh
    Ensemble: The Fairfield Orchestra
    David Mulbury,organ
    M Polo/HK, 8223725

  • 6:00 PM

    Sigismond Thalberg — Grande Sonate

    Key: c
    Opus: 56
    Ian Hominick,piano
    Titanic, 227

 

09/06/15 Toccata

 

  • 6:17 PM

    Florent Schmitt — Symphonie Concertante for Orch. & Piano

    Opus: 82
    Conductor: David Robertson
    Ensemble: Monte Carlo Philharmonic Orch
    Huseyin Sermet, piano
    Valois, 4687

  • 6:00 PM

    Edvard Grieg — Holberg Suite

    Opus: 40
    Ksenija Sidorova, Accordion
    Champs Hil, 55